Since becoming Dior’s first female creative director in 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri has used her platform to elevate women workers and invest in traditional craftsmanship. As part of this wider goal, she has mentored and supported the Mumbai-based Chanakya School of Craft, which specialises in Indian fine embroidery and has taught traditional techniques to more than 1,000 women from low-income groups. Many of them have since worked in collaboration with Dior: 40 to 50 embroiderers helped Indian artist couple Madhvi and Manu Parekh create the monumental textile abstractions that formed the backdrop to the house’s Spring/Summer ’22 couture show, and most recently the group crafted the Indian-inspired designs for its Autumn/Winter ’23 collection, which was presented in Mumbai. While many European fashion houses tend to downplay their relationships with faraway suppliers, Chiuri has instead emphasised Dior’s relationship with Chanakya, shining a spotlight on the female artisans who usher the Maison’s designs into reality. CNT’s Florrie Thomas caught up with Chiuri about the India show, her inspirations and more.
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